Notes on the Rebound

In three weeks, we are going to break up with Argentina and the best way to describe our nearly two years here is that it has been a rebound relationship. Let's face it, we left India while we still loved India. But the timing was not right for us to settle down and stay with India forever. There were other fish in the sea and we believed that it was important for our family to scope out those fish, see what else we might catch. And besides, India was never going to quit smoking.

So then we fell into the arms of Argentina. Upon arrival, we had hopes that this would be a three to five year thing, and we felt ready for that level of commitment. But it was clear within our first few weeks together that this was not going last long term and so admittedly, we were reluctant to give our new host country a fair chance. It is possible that we were simply not capable of anything more - no matter where we had landed - still heartbroken about leaving India. Would we have made it work with Vietnam? Settled down for a longer stay in Morocco? Who knows. For now, with our relationship with Argentina coming to an end, we are mindful about staying focused on this country's wonderful qualities, embracing all that we will miss.


Clean Air.
Big, blue skies and cool breezes year round. Argentina has this over India a million times over. They don't call this city Buenos Aires for nothin'.

Stunning Views.
Patagonia -- enough said.

Seasons.
Walking to school through crunchy leaves covering the sidewalks is delightful. Reminiscent of home yet so, so strange to have fall in May and June. And the 8:00am sunrise throughout the beginning and end of the school year? That messed with our New England hard-wiring - big time. But that's for a different list.

Spanish.
Our kids have had 90 minutes of Spanish instruction every school day plus daily language immersion around school, the neighborhood, throughout our travels, and when translating for their thickheaded parents. This lifelong - and possibly life changing - skill is a true gift.

Carne, helado, y malbec.
Best you'll find anywhere in the world. We will miss the smell of grilled meat wafting through the neighborhood on Sunday afternoons but hope to carry forth rituals associated with the weekly asado.

Passion for Fútbol.
Living in a soccer-obsessed country - which is more interesting and easier to follow than cricket (another point over India) - has made a lasting impression. From the team loyalty (ask anyone who their "equipo" is and there will be an impassioned answer), fervor when watching games (with the windows open we hear cheers throughout the neighborhood when goals are scored), and conversations started by whatever jersey Asa is wearing while out and about - Boca Juniors, Peru, Colombia - this game and its superfans are everywhere.

Public Transportation.
Train, bus, subway - we have taken advantage of it all. Clean, safe, super cheap, and reliable.


So, it's not you Argentina - it's us. You were mostly kind, a bit challenging some of the time and overall, a pretty good distraction for our broken hearts -- all qualities of a proper rebound. We have learned a few things about you that will stay with us always, and even more about ourselves which will give us the needed strength for our onward journey. Gracias para todo.

This song, while not from or about Argentina, will forever remind us of our time here and the title, which translates to "The Heart Hurts", is fitting. And come on, who doesn't need more Enrique in their day?

Long Break, Part I: Family Invasion & Bariloche

There is something truly special about having family and friends visit our world abroad and given the distances in between, we have been lucky to have had Jonah's parents spend time with us in India (and Nepal), and my sister take time off for a mad dash to Delhi. Being together in our space helps everyone connect the dots between our life in far off places and the experiences we wish to share when we are together in the USA. We have much - so much - gratitude for each and every visitor, and this year we got a double dose with grandparents and cousins making their first trip to our overseas home.

The grandparents from Florida arrived first, and we had a few days to explore Buenos Aires before everything shut down for the Christmas holiday.

Lunch on their first day in Argentina, at Pan et Vin in Palermo:

Followed by ice cream, por supeusto:

Last stop of our city center walking tour, in front of Casa Rosada:

Second walking tour in the gritty, colorful neighborhood of La Boca:

A statue of fútbol celebrity Carlos Tevez, whose kids attended our school until he was recently signed to a team in Shanghai for a gazillion dollars:

Also, wearing a "Vote for Pedro" t-shirt in Argentina starts interesting conversations.

Outside La Bombonera, home of the Boca Juniors:

Closer to home, a wander through our favorite wine shop in Martinez:

Christmas Day cribbage with the master:

On the day after Christmas, the six of us flew to Barlioche and checked into the house we rented through Airbnb.

We had the following day to get the fridge stocked and take the scenic drive along Circuito Chico before the rest of our crew arrived:

They really had no idea what this thing was:

Once everyone was settled into the nest, we enjoyed a full week of perfect weather for outdoor activities, big meals, and plenty of lounging around time.

The best seat in the house, perfect for four cousins (and their devices):

A contemplative space:

Kitchen with a dreamy view:

Hanging out in the back yard:

Am I getting shorter?

Cousins, ages 11, 8, 10 & 10:

Sisters and their offspring:

Crazy kids, frigid water, no fear:

Stop along the road for another cool dip:

Swimming again in glacial waters:

Just so happy the kids can swim on their own while we rest in the shade:

Three generations spend a day white water rafting:

 Katie - "la princesa" - was kidnapped by the photographer for a little while:

On New Years Eve Day, we took a boat ride to Puerto Blest, very near the border with Chile:

A short hike to check out some waterfalls:

  

Sisters!

Last supper in Patagonia, complete with lamb roasting on the open fire:

Back in Buenos Aires, just one more day all together and we spent it north of the city, taking a boat ride out to El Gato Blanco for lunch on the Tigre Delta:

For my nieces, this visit was momentous as it was their very first journey outside the USA on their spanking new passports. They were rock stars. They jumped right into the entire adventure, and I'm fairly certain that these girlie-whirlies have been bitten by the travel bug. We look forward to many more adventures together, and so how about meeting up somewhere in Africa in, say.....2019?

Stroll Through the Camera Roll

While we choose to be out of sync with the rest of the world by choosing to living overseas and in this time around, in the southern hemisphere (where the time zone is close but the seasons flipped), there are occasions when our choices result in little heartaches when missing out on certain holidays, milestones throughout the year. Memorial Day weekend looks to have been a beauty with summery, beachy, boat-riding photos filling up social media. And here, it was a chilly washout as winter descends. Ick. It's a tough way to end the school year. 

So with the posts about winter/summer break finally finished, and just two weeks left in the school year, it's time dig out our summer clothes and get packing for the USA and while doing that, look back at whatever it was that kept us busy this semester. 

End of vacation shenanigans. We have clothespins because it is rare for households to have dryers here. So we dry laundry on a line outside, and sometimes attach clothespins to our head:

When school resumed on February 1st, it was still summery. A weekend stop at our favorite burger joint, just a few blocks from our house. They have fantastic milkshakes too.

We had a four-day weekend in late March (over Easter) and enjoyed a staycation downtown. Only 14 miles from our house but it felt like we were on a bigger trip. Below is the view from our hotel (right across the street from Teatro Colón), a closer look at the BA in front of the obelisk, and the boys in small outdoor part of the rooftop pool.

In early April, our school hosted the basketball tournament for our league. It provided a much appreciated break in the routine and Asa particularly enjoyed watching every game with front row seats. He even threw the ball around with the varsity team (who by the end of the week had celebrity status in our house) between games.

On the last night of Passover, we celebrated a friend's birthday at Mishiguene, a fabulous place for classy Jewish fare. The chef-owner visited our table and so we asked where he got matzo. He admitted the options were few and far from our side of the city so he sold us a box from his pantry. 

Walking around downtown, we came across Gandhi at a gallery outside the Institute of Psychophysical Rehabilitation, which only when writing this am realizing his named is misspelled?!?

This critter was outside our front door a few weeks ago (we did not let him in):

Asa is part of a school service group which raised funds to donate to a local animal rescue group. Every Saturday, shelter volunteers bring several of nearly 300 dogs and cats available for adoption to a busy street corner in Olivos (one town closer to the city than school). These pups were so sweet and we could have taken two or three of them home with us. While adding to our house right before we take off for six weeks is not an option, a dog might very well be in our near future!

Liam puts the final touches on his country report presentation poster. Can you guess why he chose Denmark?

Asa was selected to escort the US flag in this week's Argentine Revolution Day assembly. We hear that this is a big deal - both the holiday and being part of the flag group. He was proud to have the opportunity but a bit unsure about the loaner sweatshirt which he said felt five sizes too small. This snap was taken right after he smiled and mouthed to me, "I can't breathe!" right before the music started:

Two more weeks of school and we fly overnight to the US on that last day. In the meantime, obsessively checking the weather for the places we will be (California, Massachusetts, Maine, Florida) and adding things to the "to pack" and "to buy in America" lists. So excited to catch up with friends and family and nest in our little house by the beach - under the same sun in the same season - for a while.