Out and About

For as long as we knew we were moving to Angola and told people we were moving to Angola, we got many questions about what it would be like - where would we live? isn't it super expensive there? what would we eat? would it be safe? what's there to do there? And while we had some vague answers, we really truly had no idea what we were talking about. So what is life like for us here in Luanda?

First, a bit about cost of living. Back in June, Luanda was called out for being the most expensive city in the world. So how much do things actually cost here? First, it's important to be aware that there are two currency exchanges in Angola. Some background as to why is written in this article but what it looks like today is that there is the official rate, which is about 165 Kwanzas to the dollar and the other - unofficial, not legal - rate which offers about 365 to the dollar. That difference is no joke. The first rate is what you would get if you changed dollars in a bank or paid for something with a credit card (which is not a thing here) and the second is what you would get if you changed dollars say, on the street or in a parking lot. Just laying out some of the available options.

To give a sense of what everyday items cost, here is the receipt from a recent trip to the grocery store where I bought a totally uninteresting collection of staple products:

And so converting this at the more favorable rate, which those with access to US dollars might do, here is the receipt translated, with prices converted to USD:

Two heads of garlic - 89 cents
Bottle of olive oil - $2.78
Bananas (big bunch) - 57 cents
2 cans black beans - $1.50
Crackers - $1.03
15 plastic hangers (finally all my clothes are unpacked!) - $4.17
Slightly less fancy crackers - 97 cents
Laundry detergent - $8.33
15 eggs - $2.78
Vanilla extract - 83 cents
Corn flour - $1.86
Cilantro - $1.19
3 boxes of milk (still with the boxed milk) - $3.92
Peanut butter (the first non-Skippy that earned Liam's approval) - $5.56
"Ramen" noodles (6 packages) - $1.50
2 packs of (really good) cheddar cheese - $6.67
Big bag (so many!) yellow onions - $3.33
TOTAL: $47.87

At this point it seems that our food budget - even with two tweenage boys who eat nonstop - should stay within reason, barring any unexpected currency fluctuations. And surprisingly, the quality of grocery stores (there are a few to choose from, all within walking distance - or a short shuttle ride - from school) and what we are able to get here is very good. The impossible-to-buy product (thus far) is sour cream (but lots of plain yogurt available to substitute), and the most elusive item on our typical shopping list is limes (a gin and tonic with lemon is just as fine). Of our three overseas posts, grocery stores in Luanda are the most similar to those in the USA. Serendipitous for a place with very limited restaurant options and our new normal, preparing just about every meal at home.

This past weekend, after groceries were purchased and put away, it was time for other, more fun, activities. We attended an all-faculty Brazilian lunch feast hosted by two colleagues and later had burgers for dinner with another family on their balcony. And after a mostly campus-bound Saturday, we escaped to Cabo Ledo, aka "Surfers Beach" on Sunday. A colleague loaned us two foam surfboards (which turned out to be more for show than actual use) and we packed those in the van for the nearly two hour drive south. This particular beach has not been developed at all - not one restaurant or shop - and so we enjoyed a few quiet hours playing in the (still chilly) waves, watching real surfers surf, climbing on big rocks, and lazing in the sun.

Jonah took this video on the ride home. This one is twenty seconds of the dusty countryside. In the distance, is the edge of Kissama National Park. I was certain that if I looked long enough, a giraffe would pop up over the trees. No such luck.

Approaching the Kwanza River bridge:

Entering the sprawl of Luanda. The flags of MPLA, the expected winning party of last week's election, are still flying everywhere. 

A lone baobab:

Ride along with us in this one minute video Jonah took from front (passenger) seat:

So that was last weekend and a bit about what life is like for us here. It's hard to believe that nearly three weeks of school is behind us already. Time has passed quickly and the boys come home happy every day. Next week, after school activities start up; Liam chose skateboarding and the elementary school musical. The latter choice was made under a slight amount of duress but he has been assured that his backflip skills can be worked into the show, fittingly titled "The Circus". Asa will continue with soccer and add Ultimate (frisbee). We are all enjoying new routines, ready to usher in September and wrap up our first month in Angola!