Run for the Border

After two full months in Delhi, a holiday weekend to commemorate Gandhi's birthday provided our first opportunity for a change of scenery. Amritsar is about 300 miles northwest of Delhi and a popular destination for its Golden Temple and proximity to the Wagah border, the only road crossing between India and Pakistan.

Early Saturday morning we boarded a train for the six hour journey. While the day got off to an auspicious start with us waking up at 6:09 for a 6:15 departure from campus, we made it to the station without incident.

We arrived at the hotel, had a late lunch and then it was off in a taxi to the border ceremony. Each and every day, Indian and Pakistani nationals gather in the stands to enthusiastically demonstrate their national pride while soldiers on each side put on a spectacle for the crowds before lowering the flags for the night.

After some music, dancing, and cheering, soldiers put on their own show complete with swinging arms, high step marching, and stomping feet:

When the ceremony concluded, we wandered back through the crowds and past many food stalls to our waiting taxi...

...and the driver helped us find a great place for dinner just around the corner from our hotel. We ordered a few big beers. And this is Ellen, friend and colleague, who traveled with us for the weekend.

The next day, we headed out to explore the Golden Temple. Built in the 16th century, this is the destination for followers of Sikhism. We read that it receives more visitors than the Taj Mahal (over 100,000 per day according to a few sources) and now that we have been to both places, we believe it.

There are two rules which every visitor must follow - no shoes and cover your head.

Boy was it hot. After a slow, sweaty walk around the complex, we retreated to the hotel for lunch and a rest. And lest you think that Asa and Liam spend their down time journaling or with a sketch book, the truth is that on this trip they watched Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chipwrecked no fewer than five times. And as a result, Liam sang "Kum-ba-ya, my Lord" in a chipmunky voice throughout the temple and everywhere else we went in Amritsar. Now we could justify letting the kids zone out on the iPads because it balances the day's intense cultural experiences but more than that, it makes them happy.

Feeling refreshed and with new and lighter headwear for the boys, we ventured back to the temple late in the afternoon:

We had such a pleasant stroll around that we decided to join the pilgrams for dinner. Volunteer worshipers provide a hot vegetarian meal to any visitor and tens of thousands are served here each day.

Then we stepped back outside and into the light of the full moon:

On our second and final full day in Amritsar, we visited Jallianwala Bagh, the site of a 1919 massacre by British soldiers which is now a public garden and memorial.

And to cap off the visit in true Indian style, an elephant was spotted just as we were leaving Brothers' Dhaba - an interesting and very busy restaurant.

Then it was back to the hotel to pack up and head over to the train station for a late afternoon departure.

This was a really great trip, a highlight of our travels in India to date, and a perfect three day excursion. You are welcome to click HERE to see more photos. Thank you for reading!