Wide Open Spaces: Oman

The week after Halloween was a tough one for India. First, the air quality took a nose dive. We awoke to what seemed like fog that just did not clear up during the day. It felt like living under a cloud of chalk dust. What some long timers said was an anomaly, others considered a trend. The latter theory was given some credibility in the local paper. Yuck. Then Jonah spiked a fever overnight and complained of body aches and a headache right behind his eyes. Hmmm.....we have heard these symptoms strung together many times over the past few years. But he was able to teach his classes the next day and powered through the weekend with some Tylenol and and a few naps. Must just be a virus. But around noon on Sunday I noticed that Jonah was "freakishly red" and upon closer inspection we both saw the rash all over his body. No doubt -- this was dengue and a blood test Monday confirmed the diagnosis. Nothing to do except rest, drink lots of water, and manage the body aches. Fortunately, Jonah had a relatively mild case and missed only three days of school.

In the midst of the smog and the sickness, we received our contracts for next year with a deadline of November 15th. It was just not a good week to sign up for another year in New Delhi. We needed perspective. And fresh air. And rest. Thankfully, there was a five-day weekend for Diwali and we were on our way to Oman.

We dashed to the airport after school on Friday to catch the three hour flight to Muscat. After getting our Visas, our baggage, and clearing customs, we picked up our rented Land Cruiser and made our way to a nearby hotel. The plan was to be on the move this vacation and stay in a different location each night. It turns out that Oman is a very easy country to navigate - nice roads, crazy cheap gas, great food, beautiful weather, and warm and welcoming people. We loved it all.

Day One: Muscat to Wadi Shab to Sur to Ras al-Jinz
After shopping for provisions at a grocery store near the hotel, we set out for the journey to Ras al-Jinz, the easternmost point of the Arabian peninsula. On the way, we stopped at Wadi Shab to hike and swim:

We continued on to have lunch in the coastal town of Sur, and arrived at the Turtle Reserve just after sunset. This protected area of shoreline has at least one nesting turtle every night of the year (peak months are July through September). There was just enough time for dinner and the museum on site before the 8:30pm guided walk to see nesting green turtles on the beach. Photography was not allowed but we kneeled beside two nesting mamas and watched a flock of hatchlings making their way to the water.

Day Two: Ras al-Jinz to Sur to Wahiba Sands
After breakfast, a walk out to the beach to check out the scene in daylight.

On the way to the Wahiba Sands, another detour through Sur to see the boatyard where traditional dhows are made.

Then back on the road for a night at a desert camp where we watched sunset from the dunes and saw shooting stars as we sat beside a roaring campfire.

Day Three: Wahiba Sands to Seeb to Muttrah
After a long night of sleep in absolute desert silence, breakfast was followed by a short camel trek.

After packing up and finding our way back to the main road, we started toward the city of Nizwa, one of the oldest cities in Oman. However after a bit of driving and closer calculations with the map, plans changed. Instead, Jonah steered the car back toward the coast where our first stop was Seeb (west of downtown Muscat) then Muttrah (port district on the east side of the city) where we spent our fourth night.

Days Four and Five: The Beach
For our fifth and final night in Oman, we cashed in points and stayed at a super fancy hotel. We checked in early and were allowed a late check out (6pm!) so had nearly two full days of rest and relaxation before our overnight trip back to Delhi.

We loved Oman for many reasons (click here for lots more photos) and when we got back to Delhi, the air was cleaner, the sunny days warm and the nights refreshingly cool. It turns out that this getaway was just what we needed and the perspective gained about our life in India helped us decide for sure to stay another year.